{Tutorial} How to Antique Furniture/ Glaze Furniture using Blue Minerals Antiquing Powder

So I finally got the video I promised you uploaded. It honestly took forever to upload to YouTube. I’ve been shooting all my new videos in HD so they will be easier for you guys to see, but GEEZ! They take forever to render and upload.

Anyways, so this is a fairly quick tutorial on my new favorite way to glaze furniture/ antique furniture using Blue Minerals Antiquing Powder, Fiddes Wax and Mineral Spirits.

How to Glaze Painted Furniture using Blue Minerals Antiquing Powder by WhiteCottageBoutique.com  #BlueMinerals #AntiquingPowder #GlazedFurniture #WhiteCottage

Before I started using Antiquing Powder, I was using 1 of 2 products/ techniques to glaze painted furniture;

  1. Faux Glaze – This is a pretty straight forward technique, although I know a lot of people struggle with it. I would basically tint the glaze to the color I wanted, slap it on with a paint brush and wipe it off with a baby wipe, which would al the product to just stay in the cracks. If I wanted a little bit of a pop, but didn’t want to go through too much work – this is what I would do. The only reason I didn’t like it was because the finish didn’t look very authentic, and it didn’t al me to have flexibility in the depth of the finish. It pretty much just takes off everything except what’s left in the cracks – meaning it’s a pretty limited technique.
  2. Dark Wax – This is what everyone seems to be afraid of – even me sometimes. Whenever I venture into a dark wax project, I know I could end up having issues. It’s so easy to mess up! Sometimes, for no reason at all the wax will tint the paint really dark in one area – making the finished effect look blotchy – and yes, I do apply clear wax before the dark wax. Most of the time, I would be happy with the finished look of my dark wax, but I find the whole process to be a little frustrating to be completely honest. It doesn’t give me enough control over the end look. If I want it to be lighter – well I”m kinda stuck with what it looks like after I remove the excess with another round of clear wax. Not to mention – putting on a coat of clear wax, then a coat of dark wax, then using another heavy coat of clear wax to remove the dark wax is a lot of wax! And let’s be honest – quality wax is expensive!

Basically, I would pick between the more difficult, more authentic look of wax or the easier less authentic look of glaze…. This is why I like Antiquing Powder. It is the best of both worlds!

You can read more on why I like Blue Minerals Antiquing Powder here. Also, don’t forget to enter our giveaway for a large container of Antiquing Powder! Plus, Blue Minerals is having a sale this weekend for 25% off Antiquing Powder and 10% off everything else! I think these promotions expire on 03/17/14.

Blue Minerals Antiquing Powder #PaintedFurniture #FurnitureGlaze #BlueMinerals

Here is a list of materials I used in the Tutorial:

Take a peek at this before and after shot of glazing. I wish the glaze stood out a little bit better in these photos. It really is much dark in person.

Blue Minerals Antiquing Powder Before & After by WhiteCottageBoutique.com #BlueMinerals #PaintedFurniture #FurnitureGlaze

How to Glaze Furniture/ Antique Furniture using Blue Minerals Antiquing Powder

I hope you enjoyed my tutorial and it helps you get a better idea of how the powder works and what it looks like when you apply it.

Kelsey Elaine @ WhiteCottageBoutique.com #WhiteCottage #Blogging

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  • Rick Bennett

    Great technique and video. Thanks for doing it. I have one question. Does this technique require a top coat or finish or is it durable as is? Perhaps the wax on the furniture would not take a typical finish coat.


    • Kelsey Elaine

      Hi Rick! The wax actually serves as the protective coat in this case. Usually you do not want to add anything else on top of wax. You can however switch out the wax for polyurethane or lacquer if you want something more durable than wax. But I find that for regular everyday use in a home, wax is all the protection I need.

  • Zahra

    Hi, I have been following your other tutorials on applying wax and buffing it to a nice polished finish. When you use the blue minerals, will you still get that finish? Doesn’t it need a protective coat of wax or is this enough?

    • Kelsey Elaine

      I generally use the Antiquing Powder with a light hand, so I don’t need an additional protective coat over the finish. (Keep in mind, you are using wax to apply the powder in the first place, so you are protecting your paint- and it will absorb the majority of the powder in the process.) The only time I will use an additional protective coat over the powder is if I am using a very heavy hand. I find the powder needs an extra coat of protection if I’m leaving a lot on the surface and it is a piece that will be cleaned regularly with pretty heavy cleaners (like a table top). So I generally will use a Water Based Polyurethane in a spray can. That way I don’t move any of the powder around while putting on another protective coat. But for this piece – just applying the powder with wax and letting it dry was enough that the powder will not move without some type of strong oil based cleaner.

  • Bobbi

    Can you use the Antiquing Powder on Chalk Paint? Will the mineral spirits wipe the paint off too?

  • Mimi

    Love this tutorial! Can’t wait to try the powder. Thanks!