{Tutorial} How To Glaze Painted Furniture

*Check out my new updated tutorial on how I Glaze Painted Furniture here!

The most common question I get when people see my furniture is how I glaze my furniture. I think the reason for this is that;

  • Glazing is one of those things that if you do it wrong, it is really difficult to do. So it can be very intimidating.
  • I have a different glazing technique than most.

The reason I say its difficult when you don’t do it right is because for the longest time, I was doing it wrong! It was so hard and it took forever. I didn’t have enough control over the finish, the glaze just sort of did what it wanted and I would have to repaint sections all the time.

Eventually, after some experimentation and a lot of frustration, I learned that there are multiple techniques for applying glaze. You can glaze with dark wax or you can use a glazing medium that is mixed with acrylic or latex paint.

 How To Glaze Painted Furniture by Vintage Storehouse & Co.

I personally use the glazing medium most often, although I do periodically use wax if I want a more distressed and dirty look. This tutorial is going to be on how to glaze your furniture using a glazing medium (I use Behr Glaze, but any glaze will work fine). There are multiple ways to apply this glaze, but because I want to make sure that the glaze is only in the cracks, and I want to maintain the overall color of my chairs, I’m going to apply the glaze after I apply a top coat. After is the key here.

How To Glaze Painted Furniture by Vintage Storehouse & Co.

I used Annie Sloan Clear Wax in this tutorial. I still use her products, but for the most part I stick with Fiddes Supreme wax. Its much easier to apply and cheaper. Once you’ve applied the wax, let it dry for at least an hour… preferably overnight. Then mix your glaze.

Tutorial on How to Apply Wax

Mixing Your Glaze

Mixing glaze is pretty simple. Pour a portion of your glaze into a mixing cup. Add a few squirts of acrylic or latex paint. I use a mixture of brown and black until I get a really dark brown color, but this is all personal. They amount of color you put in will influence how strong your color is once the glaze dries. I use a small amount of paint. (Approx. 1- 2 Tbsp per cup.) Mix it all around and you’re ready to glaze!

How to Glaze Painted Furniture

Check back soon for more tutorials on how to refinish furniture!

A few FAQ’s about Glazing

I get asked questions about glazing all the time and I wanted to add a little section to this post to answer those questions.

First I just want to clear something up right off. There are 2 types of glaze – glazing with dark wax and glazing with glaze medium that you purchase from the paint supply store. They are applied differently, so therefor the answers be are for the stated glaze technique.

  • What is the difference between Dark Wax and Glaze?
    • Dark Wax is a Colored Wax that is usually applied after you put on a good coat of clear wax to get an aged and worn effect. It not only sticks in the cracks, it will also tint your color slightly and make your furniture look somewhat dirty. It’s great for very artistic people who are willing to spend more time on their furniture, and are okay with not having strict control over where the color is. It’s very unpredictable, but that’s part of the beauty of it. Glazing is applied by mixing some colorant into glaze medium that you buy at the store. When you purchase the glaze (unless it’s already been colored) it will be a milky white color and when dry it will dry clear. I use latex or acrylic paint as a colorant to my glaze. All glaze does is make your color thinner and dry ser, giving you time to work with it. It’s applied by painting it on (usually after a poly or lacquer top coat) and wiping off where you don’t want the glaze to be. It’s much simpler and you have a lot more control over the product. But it’s also not very artistic and you cannot create the same look as dark wax.
  • Can you use glaze over waxed furniture?
    • Absolutely! It’s one of my favorite looks. It makes you glaze much more like a dark wax in that it grips to the finish more and more difficult to remove. Meaning you really have to work at it to remove it where you don’t want it to be. (By the way, you can use more clear wax over the glaze to remove the glaze if needed, just like dark wax). But it does give you a bit more control than with dark wax. I love this effect with light colored furniture where dark wax is just too much.
  • Can you use stain instead of latex/acrylic paint with your glaze?
    • Yes. I’m a little less familiar with this technique, but I have seen it done with beautiful results.
  • Should I put another layer of wax over my glazed furniture?
    • This is a very good question. The short answer is no. First of all, if your using clear wax and dark wax to glaze, the clear wax will remove more of your dark wax and may ruin the look you were going for. The wax will harden and cure the way it is to a protective layer in an of itself. If you are using clear wax and tinted glaze you will have the same issue above and you are not adding any additional protection to the piece. If you are using glaze and polyurethane, then you could go back and put another layer of polyurethane over the glaze and you won’t have any issues with it affecting your finish, but in my opinion it’s not necessary.

I could go on about this subject forever because there are so many different ways to go about glazing and they all create very different effects. These are the main questions that I get on a regular basis. Please comment be if you have more questions so that future readers can see the answer. Thanks!

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  • rosiegrl2

    KELsey, once you have glazed do you go back with wax or is that it.

    thank you

    • Kelsey Elaine

      No, I do not follow up with more wax. The wax can smudge the glaze, plus it’s not necessary.

  • Ann

    I’ve painted my bed an antique white. I have a min wax gel stain in walnut that I find very hard to work with–it seems once you put it on, it’s hard to wipe off. Can I mix that walnut stain with the behr glaze and then apply with a brush and wipe off with baby wipes like youdo in your tutorial? Thanks

    • Kelsey Elaine

      My understanding is that you can, but I have not tried it before. I have seen others do it though. Let me know how it works for you.


  • Tammy Toler

    Kelsey, do you glaze the whole piece or just the detailed areas?

    • Kelsey Elaine

      I apply the glaze over the entire piece as it generally creates a more cohesive look than applying it in just the details, and I like a little bit of a dingy look.(Just a little bit though!)

  • Missy

    I love the look you have going on with the white paint and dark glaze. I especially am loving how it doesn’t dirty up your pure white, which is why I have chosen so far to never glaze or use dark wax. I’d love to try your technique on one of my pieces. Everything is already waxed with a clear wax. I can use the Behr glaze, mix it with brown/black paint and do the glaze even if the piece has no poly on it?? A side note…I have also been afraid to poly white pieces as I have heard they can yellow. You’re amazing!! Thank you! 🙂

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Hi Missy,

      You can go ahead and use the Behr glaze mixed with your brown/black paint right over the wax. Just make sure the wax is dry and use a wet cloth or baby wipes to remove the excess. If you find that it’s too dark in an area, you can use some more clear wax to work it out if necessary. No poly is necessary! Also, polyurethane does yellow over time which is especially noticeable on white furniture (this is called ambering), but there is a comparable product called PolyACRYLIC that is designed to be a crystal clear finish that is waterbased and can be used directly over white colors with no noticeable ambering effect! When you go to purchase the product, make sure to look for one that says crystal clear finish and waterbased formula!

      Hope that helps!


  • Dana Peters

    Hello, i am just about ready to redo my 1940s veneer BR set that i have had forever! I have been researching until I am turquoise in the face. I will be using off white and cream to two tone, mixing my own chalk paint. My question comes in here, do Iseal with a polyacrylic before glazing? What I have read, it seems waxing is not the best choice for me.
    Thank you so much for your hep,
    Dana Peters

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Yes. Especially if you are planning on using chalk paint. Because chalk paint is extremely porous, it will absorb everything you apply to it like a sponge. So when you go to put on the glaze, it will most likely soak up the color and look extremely muddy instead of glazed. The easiest way to go about it is putting the poly on first, then glazing. I recommend using baby wipes to remove the excess, it makes the process go by much faster.

  • kookie

    Do you use water base poly or any kind of coating over glaze?

    Can I use water base glaze over spray paint?

    thank you!!

    • Kelsey Elaine

      I personally do not put any type of protective coating over my glaze. I find it’s not necessary for the type of glazing I generally do. If you are planning on leaving a lot of the glaze on the piece (not just in the cracks), you could put another coating of water based poly over it to protect the glaze. And yes you can use water based glaze over spray paint as long as it is water based spray paint. You can find out what type of spray paint it is by looking on the back of the can to see what it recommends cleaning it up with. (If it doesn’t already tell you on the front). If it says paint thinner or mineral spirits, it’s an oil based spray paint. If it says water – then it’s water based!

  • chris

    I am working on a bedroom set. Question is, client would like the top on dresser stained dark not painted, can I use glaze instead of stain and get same look,

    • Kelsey Elaine

      As far as I am aware – no. Glaze is a clear coat that you can tint with latex paint, but it dries much slower than regular latex – giving you time to work with it. This makes it ideal for faux finish techniques such as adding character and age to a piece. There are ways to get a look similar to natural wood with a stain but it’s something that takes tons of practice and is way out of my league. It would be much easier just to strip and stain the dresser!

  • Anonymous

    What kind of polyacrylic do you use in between the homemade chalk paint and the glaze?

    • Kelsey Elaine

      In this video I used Minwax Waterbased PolyAcrylic. Now I actually use General Finishes waterbased PolyAcrylic, or I use wax instead of poly.

      • Ashleigh

        After applying a coat of waterbased PolyAcrylic, how long do you have to wait before glazing? I want to ‘seal’ my painted table top (I used flat paint) with a layer of PolyAcrylic, then do a glazing technique over top of that. I am just not sure if I should wait until its dried (a couple days) or until its cured (a few weeks). I dont want it to bubble or crack. Thanks! 🙂

        • Kelsey Elaine

          Hi Ashleigh,

          I have never had a problem putting the glaze on after the polycrylic has dried. I usually wait about 24-48 hours before I apply the glaze.

  • paul H

    I have bedroom doors that are entirely glazed. Unfortunately, the glaze is lifting, cracking, and pieces are beginning to break off. Do you have any suggestions for removing all the old glazing and starting over?

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Hi Paul, I’m sorry to hear about the issues you are experiencing with the glaze. Unfortunately, as far as I am aware, there is no way to remove the old glaze without removing the paint as well. You can strip the paint all the way down to the wood and start completely from scratch again. Generally glaze will not lift and crack unless you are mixing mediums. For example, if you used an oil based paint, then put a water based glaze over the top, then finished it off with an oil based top coat. When you do re-do your door, make sure to use either all oil based, or all water based products if you didn’t before.

  • LaAna Littlefield

    Love your tutorial! I’m new to all this and really want to get it right so I’m glad I found you!! I do have a question for ya though… can I glaze over my chalk paint? I have a lot of detail in my piece and I also want to tone down the brightness of my color so would glazing work for me??

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Yes you can absolutely glaze over chalk paint. You just want to seal it first. You can use wax or poly to seal it – it will make it much easier than going right onto the paint.

  • Tina Moye

    Thanks in advance for your reply, I have kitchen table a customer wanted chaulk painted with distressing. I’m at the point to sealing. My concern is high traffic and use. I love the waxed look, but not sure it’s really safe to have hot plates or dishes on it. My actions Ive used thus far outdoor paint to make my chaulk paint, layer painting and have distressed. I wonder about using wax first and then glaze. Will it be sealed enough to use this table?

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Hi Tina,

      I never recommend using wax to refinish anything in a kitchen, including kitchen tables. The reason is because they are high traffic areas, but mostly because a lot of the oils that are common in kitchens can eat away at the wax finish, usually meaning that the piece will show finger prints really bad, but it will also need a new coat of wax every 1-2 years. (I know a lot of people support using wax in these areas, but this is just the information I’ve gathered from my research and experience with restoring furniture). Also, many of the chemicals used to clean these areas also eat away at the finish making them difficult to clean. I like to use wax prior to glazing, but again, I am not doing this in really high traffic areas where I expect to have to scrub to get clean, but if that’s all that you’re worried about, you can always put another coat of wax over the glaze once the glaze has dried!

      I hope that helps, good luck on your project!

  • http://www.facebook.com/pages/Get-Instagram-PC-Version/682916831789209 Nicole

    When I initially commented I clicked the “Notify me when new comments are added” checkbox and now each
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    that service? Appreciate it!

    • admin

      You would need to go into the email that you have been sent and unsubscribe from there. I do not have a way to unsubscribe you from my end. There should be a little link at the bottom of the email that says unsubscribe.


  • Missy

    Hi Kelsey Elaine! Thanks so much for all of the awesome information! I would like to distress a dining set with chalk paint for use on a screened in porch. From what I understand, I should seal my painted pieces with poly acrylic, then glaze over that. I would like the table top finish, especially, to be able to endure weather and normal kitchen table use. Would another coat of poly acrylic or two give me this result?

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Yes, but the polyacrylic on and then follow up with the glaze. If you’re worried about it the durability of the piece, I would just put another coat of polyacrylic on the table after the glaze… it not absolutely necessary, but it doesn’t hurt either and if it gives you piece of mind – do it!

  • Kathy

    Hi Kelsey, thanks so much for your awesome video on glazing. I am doing my first ASCP furniture piece which I have painted and waxed. I now want to add some glazing. My question is can I use ASCP to add to the glaze for color or must I use acrylic or latex paint only?

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Hi Kathy,

      I would imagine that you could use ASCP for the color of the glaze. The only reason I would not recommend doing this is that it doesn’t help you in any way and ASCP is much more expensive then a small container of craft paint – but if you already have the color on hand – I don’t think it would be an issue!

  • http://vintagestorehouse&company Sandra S

    I bought a very old French loveseat that is very gold. It has some very pretty carvings on it. It looks like it already has some stain or glaze in the cravings. I want to tone it down.. I want some of the gold to show but not as much as it has right now. I really don’t want to strip it because I want some gold. So what would you recommend that I put on it or what to do?

    • Kelsey Elaine

      You could do a wash over it. I would go on Pinterest and search for ideas that way. A wash is a good way to add some color (usually white or grey) over the gold, but still have to gold peaking through. It’s also extremely easy to do!


  • corey

    Hi im doing my house in an antique american style with realy ornate mouldings and chair rails throughout the living areas flowing through to my kitchen i love the glazeing look and want to do it to all timber work i will be useing an antique white two pac polyurethane in a satin finish. Is that ok to just apply a glaze straight over and how durable will the glaze be. Thanks in advance

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Hi Corey,

      Yes you can apply the glaze right over the polyurethane. It will be plenty durable for regular use, but if you are worried about it, you can always put an extra layer of poly right over the glaze to seal it in. I don’t feel like this is necessary, so I don’t, but if it’s on a surface where you expect to be doing some major scrubbing and some point – it might be worth it.



  • Allison

    Three questions: 1.) I want to paint my kitchen cabinets and glaze in the inset cracks. I’m wondering what type of paint I need to buy (chalk, acrylic, etc).
    2.) I’m using cream in the kitchen and gray in my den, and the two room are open to one another. Therefore, I’m wondering if I should darken my den’s gray paint with black and use it in the glaze to reflect that color in the cracks of the kitchen cabinets.
    3.) It looks like the process is 1. Paint, 2. Clear glaze, 3.apply colored glaze in the insets. Is this correct?

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Hi Allison,

      I prefer Chalk Paint when I paint any already finished surface. If you are working with unfinished wood – it’s really unnecessary, but I’m assuming that you are painting some older cabinets that are already in your home. I prefer to use Chalky Paint Powder, which can be added to any brand of latex/acrylic paint to transform it into Chalk Paint and we carry our own line of it called Vintage Storehouse Chalky Paint Powder. It basically eliminates the need to sand or prime – cutting out about half the work – prior to painting. Plus you can use any color you like and its much less expensive than the name brand stuff.

      I love your idea of using a slightly darker version of the gray color to do the glaze – I think that will look awesome!…

      You got the process mostly right, but you will never put on clear glaze. After you paint you’ll want to seal the paint with something like polyurethane or lacquer. I would probably recommend polyurethane in your case because it’s easier to apply than lacquer. Make sure you get waterbased (sometimes it’s referred to as Polycrylic instead of polyurethane.) but as long as it says waterbased your good to go. I would not use wax like I do in the video – it’s not a good idea for kitchen cabinets in my opinion, even though it’s much easier to work with than the other two.

      Then once you’ve applied the poly (or lacquer) you’ll glaze using the color glaze in the insets. If you feel it’s necessary for such a high traffic area, you could even seal the colored glaze in with another coat of polyurethane once your done. But this is optional – I would wait to see how you feel about it’s durability before you plan on doing so.

      I hope that helps!

  • Debbie

    I am using chalk paint on kitchen cabinets that are 35 years old. I wanted to use three colors to distress them with. My first coat was a greenish gray color, second coat a brick red and third and final coat is butter cream. I want to distress them so the colors will come thru, but how do i finish them? Wax poly acrylic glaze I’m confused? I have mocha glaze that I would love to go in the creases but when do I apply this?

    • Kelsey Elaine

      There are a lot of options as far as finishing your painted pieces go, so let me just simplify it for you. If your working on your kitchen I NEVER recommend using wax. So I would stick with polyacrylic. Put a coat or 2 on after you’ve painted and distressed your cabinets. Then apply your mocha glaze. If you want a little extra durability you can add another coat of poly after you apply the glaze – but this is optional.

      I hope that simplifies it for you! Good luck!

  • Lisa

    I’m doing kitchen cabinets using first a tinted primer(50% of the tint of the paint) and then a paint(Benjamin Moore Advance), which is water based. I chose them because they have the specific color I wanted.
    I was wondering if I could mix my glaze( I was thinking of using a mocha Valspar) with part polyurethane. Have you ever done that yourself?

    • Kelsey Elaine

      You’ll apply your polyurethane before you glaze or after. I recommend before but you don’t want to mix polyurethane with your glaze. That will lead to a big sticky mess. You can mix your own glaze though – I do it every time because I’m picky about colors and I want it to be exact. You can get a can of behr glaze at home depot, then get some waterbased paint that you want to use. Mix it up and you’ve got glaze. I don’t use exact measurements when I glaze, I generally just estimate. I would say its about 1/2c. waterbased paint per quart of glaze.

  • Diane

    Hi Kelsey, I would like to pick your brain if I may. My husband and I have a 1920’s era home that we have used as a rental for several years. We are now in the process of remodeling the home for sale. The home itself is a quaint southern victorian style to give you an idea. It has large rooms…with the exception of the kitchen that is…that kitchen is small, odd shaped and is my nemesis. It has the old-time metal kitchen cabinets! The cabinet’s Logo is still attached adding to the vintage charm in my opinion. There is a matching stove hood. The cabinets are in very good condition for being so old. No dings or dents, drawers in working order and all the hardware is original. Only the paint is dingy and no amount of cleaning has helped so I must decide to either add another coat of paint or replace the cabinets. Now these cabinets have been painted a cream color 2 times in past years using water based acrylic paint. I really don’t want to replace these cabinets with wood…that would be a sad thing to do in my opinion. Do you think that Chalk paint (then clear wax to get that beautiful color depth) would be a good choice to go with for this vintage/antique kitchen’s cabinets? I wasn’t sure if CP could be used over layers of acrylic. If you agree on the CP, what would you use as a top coat for the cabinets? For the stove hood? I love your blog and trust/value your opinion. Thank you so much Kelsey. P.S. I wish I could attach a pic of the wall paper I’ve uncovered in this kitchen. I love it! Can’t use it and have to put sheetrock over it again…but it is so..so…VINTAGE! 🙂

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Hi Diane,

      You can use Chalky Paint over latex or acrylic paint – so I see no issue there. You might consider sanding down the surface to even it out if it seems like it would need it prior to painting. It will also help with adhesion a little. The only issue I see is the wax. I NEVER recommend using wax in a kitchen – but this is just a personal preference thing. Wax doesn’t hold up well to kitchen oils and grease – meaning theres a good chance you’d have to rewax every couple of years. Since you’re selling it – that might not be a huge concern for you, but something you should probably consider. Although wax adds a lot of vintage charm and looks beautiful – it just isn’t a very good option compared to polyurethane or lacquer in a kitchen. If you’re painting them a light color where yellowing of the top coat is going to be a concern, I would recommend looking at a waterbased polycrylic. Try to use a satin or semi gloss sheen to keep the look soft to go better with the vintage feel.

      I hope that helps!

      • http://att.net Kathleen

        I have already painted and glazed my kitchen cabinets and china cabinet. I used homemade chalk paint (plaster of paris mixed with latex paint) with colored glaze on top. The china cabinet (attached to kitchen cabinets) is painted with latex paint with colored glaze on top. I love the finished look! I was now thinking that since they are in the kitchen they should have polyacrylic painted on top to “seal and protect” them. I have read several of your responses saying to polyacrylic BEFORE the glaze? Did I just make a big mistake? Will painting the polyacrylic ruin the glazed finish? I want to do it correctly and insure a lasting finish.

        • Kelsey Elaine

          No, it will not ruin the finish. I recommend putting the polyacrylic on before the glaze because it gives you more control of the glaze itself, increasing it’s working time and lessening the tinting effect it has on the color. You can absolutely apply the polyacrylic after you apply the glaze.

  • Susan Palmer

    Hi Kelsey, have been surfing so much at the risk of getting confused, and find your answers good and to the point. I need advice re the glazing techniques. I attended a AS course in the UK. We were taught all the basic chalk paint techniques, but glazing does not seem to be part of the AS furniture painting – except the dark wax of course. A project I am stuck with, is a dining room table to be painted. Firstly, my house is a small Victorian house in Hertfordshire, and I do NOT want the cottage or farm look. I got rid of all my old ‘life with the ex’ bulky furniture and bought pieces from charity shops and ebay that look great in my place. I have Queen Anne chairs, and they are easy : Old white and a solid smooth paint finish. The legs of the table are also easy : it has beautiful wood detail at the rounded top and base of the legs. Im doing those Old White as well with the dark wax glaze in the detailed places only. It’s the table top that is the problem. Its that horrible varnished shiny 70’s walnut look. I will take it back to the bare wood (I may have to remove a piece of veneer as well). Then how can I make the top still took smooth and ‘woody’? Glazing has to go on a painted surface. Do you suggest painting it with perhaps a light brown paint and then glaze mixed with a stain? I looked at an example of a top painted in Graphite then dark wax glaze making it almost black. Although that looked beautiful it may be too contrasting. On your website you have 2 nice brown table tops. How did you get them to still look like its wood?
    A further question : I want to poly the table legs for the extra durability, yet I have to wax it first as a base for the dark glaze. You seem to suggest its wax OR poly, but can it be poly OVER wax? Or do I as per your previous answer 1) chalk paint 2) poly 3) glaze with dark wax. See? There I go again doubting and confusing myself!
    Thank you so much, Susan

  • Susan Palmer

    Hi I read all the comments again and it looks like my poly vs wax question is answered. I should not use the dark wax mixed with white spirits after the poly because its a glaze with wax rather than a tinted glaze base which is your preference. So for the table legs I should mix my own glaze and do the whole leg, not just the carved detail. I will do that first because if it does slightly tint the Old White I should do that with the chairs as well, otherwise they wont match. I can use the AS dark wax on other projects so not to waste it, yet I must mix it with spirits to lightens the effect. Oh and the reason I have to strip the varnish first is its all chipped. Thanks again! Susan

  • gwennie

    okay! i’m attempting my first piece of furniture using a glaze. do i only need to wax the portions of the piece that i intend to glaze? and if i do wax the entire piece, what happens to the wax? does it just stay on and wear off over time? i’m very nervous……

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Don’t be nervous! It’s really not that complicated! I would wax the entire piece – not just a section because it might look slightly different in areas you don’t wax as opposed to the areas you do wax. The wax is a top coat, so it will stay on pretty much forever, unless your piece sees a lot of wear, then it might wear off overtime just like any other finish.

      • gwennie

        thank you so much for your positive response. there are a few stressed areas, so waxing the entire piece and using the glaze over the entire piece will add character. is there a way to attach a photo of my finished product? i’m hoping it’s worthy of a photo. i did remember to take a BEFORE photo at the last minute!

        • Kelsey Elaine

          I don’t have a way of uploading to my site, but I would love it if you shared it with my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/VintageStorehouse?ref=hl. I’m excited to see what it looks like!

          • gwennie

            okay, as i said, this is my first piece and i’m nervous. what if i don’t like it? can i paint over the wax?

  • Heather S.

    Hi Kelsey, Thank you for sharing your fabulous techniques with us; your work is beautiful! I am going to paint and antique a lovely 1920’s veneered headboard-footboard I recently found at a resale shop. This is only my second project (the last one simply needed sanding and staining), so this technique is completely new to me, plus your opinions are so different than other top searched sites, I’m still easily confused. I must say, though, I like your work the most and trust your opinion based on the scouring I’ve done on your site. :-).

    Will you please answer a few questions for me?

    1) In this particular post, you say “In this tutorial…” you are using a glazing medium from Behr. But in the next paragraph, you write that you are using Annie Sloan Clear Wax. As a newbie, I’m so confused. Did you use both? If so, how?

    2) I’ve never used chalk paint before, but it sounds lovely and perfect for my headboard. Curious if a regular Behr flat paint will work just as well, or if flat paint has issues of its own? I had bought a bucket, but I might exchange for the chalk.

    3) Last but not least, you said the Dark Wax is harder to work with, which I get. Is the clear wax hard, too? I’m still confused if I use clear wax, glazing medium, or both. Also, can I use poly acrylic with clear sheen over chalk paint?

    Thank you so much in advance!

    Your newest fan,

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Hi Heather,

      Good questions! I will try to clear up as much confusion as I can!

      1.) Yes, I use both. Clear wax is a top coat. Glaze is a faux finish. Glaze is a paint medium that has a long open time, meaning you can mix in your favorite color of paint (usually a dark brown for furniture) then paint it on and it will take a while to dry – allowing you to work with it to get the effect your looking for. Using a rag or baby wipe – you can remove the excess paint/glaze mixture to leave it only in the crevices of your project, making all the little details stand out. Dark wax is similar to glaze in that it’s used to create depth and texture in the finish just like glaze. Usually furniture restorers apply it all over the piece, then remove it from the areas they don’t wish to have the color on. CLEAR wax on the other hand is completely different. Clear wax is a top coat used to protect your finish from dents and dings during everyday use. It’s most commonly used on chalk or milk based paints. But you can also use it with a flat or eggshell finish latex or acrylic paint. I use it in this demonstration to create a barrier between the glaze and the paint. Chalk paint soaks up the glaze color too fast, making it difficult to work with. Adding a barrier between the two makes the glaze much easier to control.

      2.) Chalk paint is much more expensive than Behr. Behr is my least favorite paint for furniture because it’s thick and doesn’t go on as beautifully as some other paints do – I still work with it from time to time because it’s inexpensive though. I usually prefer working with either Benjamin Moore Regal Select or Sherwin Williams Cashmere and I add Vintage Storehouse Chalk Paint Powder to the paint to get the chalk finish and to make it so I don’t have to go through the work of priming or sanding before hand.

      3.) Clear wax is a top coat, where dark wax is used to create interest – so they are very different to work with. I almost always use clear wax (although now a days I use Fiddes Supreme Clear wax instead of Annie Sloan). You have 3 options to create the “glazed” faux finish look on your project. 1.) Glaze – which is what I demonstrated in this video. 2.) Dark Wax – the most difficult of all three options and 3.) Antiquing Powder (sometimes called aging dust) – this is the easiest to work with and I have a couple different videos on how to work with this product. I also have videos on using dark wax as well if your curious about that.

      I hope that helps!

      • Heather S.

        This does help, thank you! I’ve watched your other videos and written a help list so that I can refer to and study. 🙂 I’ve decided that Chalk Paint with the SW Cashmere is the way I’ll go, plus the Fiddes Clear Wax. I’m starting first thing in the morning. I’m so exited!! Thank you again for your help.

  • http://thevintagestonehouse Sharon

    Hi I have painted a China cabinet with premier and now I’m painting it with furniture paint (beautitone) fresh linen, and I want to glaze it what do I do next? Do I wax over paint? Please help me thanks

    • Kelsey Elaine

      I’m not familiar with Beautitone paint, but if it’s a glossy paint, you can actually skip the step where you apply the wax and just immediately apply the glaze. If it’s not glossy, then I would recommend waxing the painted surface first, then apply your glaze mixture following the steps above!

      Hope that helps!


      • http://thevintagestonehouse Sharon

        Thanks, the paint is a satin finished, so should I wax it?
        Thanks Kelsey

        • Kelsey Elaine

          You could. I might try just applying the glaze on an inconspicuous area first without the wax. If you feel like you have the level of control you want without the wax – then I don’t think there’s a need to wax it. If you’re struggling to get the glaze off, then go ahead and apply a coat of wax to give you a little bit more control.



  • sweetb2006

    Hi Kelsey,

    Thanks for the help… I wanted to let you know that your updated tutorial isn’t working. Also, I would like to recommend to anyone using chalk paint and wanting to use polyacrilic on it, to use matte polycrilic to keep the look of the flat chalk paint. Hope you don’t mind my two cents. 🙂

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Thank you! I updated the link.

  • Valerie

    Please help! I recently primed and painted the base of a round oak table with a satin latex paint, and refinished the top. then I decided to glaze over the painted base. The product that the sore sold me for the glazing was called old masters wiping stain.
    I applied the glaze and got the look I wanted after wiping most of it off. the problem is that was five days ago and its very sticky to the touch. I tried wiping it back off with mineral spirits on a soft cloth but it did nothing. I have it in a warm place with a fan blowing on it but it isn’t helping. I don’t know what to do now. Can you help?
    Thanks, Valerie

    • Kelsey Elaine

      Hi Valerie,

      I’m so sorry to hear about your experience! It sounds so frustrating. Unfortunately, this is a new issue for me that I’ve never run across. I’m also unfamiliar with Old Masters Wiping Stain, but my guess would be the the Wiping stain is oil based. Check the can to see if it is supposed to clean up with water or mineral spirits/paint thinner. If it’s not water, then most likely it’s oil based – and your issue is that it is repelling the surface of the latex paint. If this is the case, you’ll most likely have to strip the glaze off, which will remove a lot of the paint and then add another coat of paint and use a different product as your glaze.