It’s finally here. The last post to our video tutorial series. It’s been so crazy with the holidays and all, that I thought this last post would never get finished! I’m excited about this tutorial because I’m demonstrating a new way of applying wax to furniture…. well it’s not “new” to the world, but it’s new to me. It’s actually a technique that has been used for centuries, and I think it works wonders and is much faster than the way I had been taught previously.
On to the video tutorial!
I know I mention some of these in the video, but here are few extra tips to help you in applying your wax.
- Work it in to the paint! Don’t just spread it around on top, you want to feel like you are pressing it into the paint.
- Buff after about 5 minutes. You’re looking for the change from a glossy wet texture to a slight haze. That’s the perfect time to buff.
- If after you buff, you feel like your finish could be streaky you either have too much wax, or too little wax on your finish. The best solution for this is to do another coat. Most pieces are perfect after 2 coats of wax… but I have had a few stubborn pieces where I’ve had to apply 4-5 coats to get a consistent shine (this is more common on darker colors). When you apply your second coat, you are going to be reworking the first coat a little bit, as well as making sure you are covering any missed areas the first time. I have found with chalk paint, some areas will absorb the wax more – meaning more coats are needed! (Buffing shouldn’t be difficult – if you are struggling with it, I recommend trying the steps above before spending hours trying to buff the finish).
- Use a brush if working on highly detailed areas or cracks. A lot of the times I will use a brush to get into the corners and then rub it out with the method shown in the video (similar to cutting in when hand painting a piece). This way you can avoid globs in your corners as they will be extremely visible when it dries.
- Use a Drill Buffing Brush to make your buffing go by faster and with less work.
- Use lint free rags. Blue Minerals offers a microfiber waxing and buffing cloth kit – or you can use one you find at a local store. Look for microfiber cloths that are extra plush. The ones used for cleaning windows or cars tend to be too thin for buffing and don’t work as well.
- You do not need to buff if you are going to be applying dark wax. You can buff in between coats of your wax – but it’s not necessary. I usually just buff on the last coat.
Remember, I use these techniques with Fiddes Clear Wax. I have not tried them with other brands of wax, but I would expect them to be very similar. I hope you found this information helpful!