DIY Chalk Paint Recipe Update

*Warning: Although we still publish information about our DIY Chalk Paint Recipe that I personally used for years, we want to let you know that using Plaster of Paris can be hazardous to your health. Always wear a respirator when working with Plaster of Paris and make sure not to touch the mixture while it is setting as it can cause severe burns. We want you to be safe while painting your furniture. If you are looking for an all natural safer solution for creating Chalk Paint Check out Blue Minerals Chalk Paint Powder.


A little while back I tried Annie Sloan Chalk Paint on a beautiful hutch I refinished. I really liked some things about the paint, but felt that the cost of the paint ($38 per quart), was just too much for me. I started doing some research online and discovered a few different recipes for DIY chalk paint. I did a small experiment to see how it really compares to Annie Sloan’s chalk paint as well as latex. Since then, I’ve had a little while to mess with the recipe and techniques I use to apply it, and I wanted to update you on the changes I’ve made. I’ve also updated my previous post as well to have the most updated information. (Click on the photo to see a large version you can print off).

DIY Chalk Paint Recipe Update by

There she is… the chalk paint recipe I use on all my new refinished pieces. There are a few tricks I’ve learned while perfecting this recipe as well to get the most out of the paint. I have a paint gun, so I am spraying this paint on. I use an HVLP sprayer, which is not really designed for latex paint. There are a few things I like about the sprayer, so I continue to use it. But because it’s not designed for latex, there are 2 things I have to do to make sure I get the most out of the Chalk Paint.

  1. I thin the crap out of the paint. Not to the point where I am making what would be considered a wash, but just enough so that I get a viscosity of about 100. The nice thing about this Chalk Paint Recipe is that to thin it down, I just add water. I add about 1 1/2 to 2 cups of water for the mixture above to get the right consistency for me.
  2. This is the most critical part of using home-made chalk paint – mix, mix, MIX. Oh and did I mention to mix? I can’t stress the importance of this step enough. If you don’t mix well enough it will cause multiple problems – clogged spray gun (if using a spray gun), lumps in the paint ( they almost look like tiny rocks) and white speckles in the paint after you sand it down. The last one is especially problematic if you are using dark paints. (By the way, I haven’t mentioned this yet, but you can actually make BLACK chalk paint. Not graphite – not dark grey, but black. Score one more for homemade chalk paint!) Here’s how I mix my paint.


  • I first mix the Plaster of Paris and water in a zip lock bag. I add the two together, close the top and start kneading through the bag. I do this for a few minutes until all the lumps are gone. The nice thing about this technique is you can actually feel the lumps with your fingers and smash them out. Mixing with a spoon in a cup doesn’t al you too see these lumps, so your somewhat blind.

mixing in the plaster


  • Next I add in the paint. This parts a little tricky because you want to make sure you get a consistent mixture and the plaster likes to stay in the corners of the bag. What I do is add in the paint, flip the corners inwards and start pushing it from the corners out. I usually even shake the bag a bit (make sure its zipped up all the way) to get it it to blend a little better (don’t shake too much, or you can get bubbles in the paint, just a little is enough!).

mixing in the paint


Hopefully you enjoy this paint as much as I do. It goes on super smooth, you can lightly sand it with a 400 grit sand paper and make it ultra smooth and finish off with wax or polyurethane. You don’t have to use primer with this paint either!






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Top Coat Review

I’ve looked and looked and looked for a good review of the different types of top coats to use on furniture. There really isn’t a good comprehensive and simple review of the different types of top coats out there – at least when it comes to refinishing furniture. Most people tend to have their favorite type and they stick with it. I’ve been refinishing furniture for quite a while now and I’ve tried tons and tons of different top coats and brands for my painted furniture. Each one provides a different finish and has a different technique to apply, but I wanted to s with you the different types, the pros and cons and the tips I’ve learned along the way.


Wax is one of my favorite and most used top coats. The most common brands of wax for furniture that I’ve seen include; Fiddes and Sons, Annie Sloan Clear Wax, Minwax and Briwax. I personally prefer Annie Sloan Clear Wax due to its ease of application and buttery soft texture. I think it’s well worth the extra expense when using Wax.

Annie Sloan Wax


  • Easy to Apply; You can use a brush or a cloth (old t-shirts work great). I tend to use a large brush as it’s faster and gets in all the nooks and crannies a little better, but I do occasionally use a cloth as well.
  • Durable Finish; this stuff is tough! I would say on a scale of 1-10 in strength of top coats I would give it an 8. It repels water – so you can spill on it and it won’t damage or warp like a traditional wood finish. I have a bunch of pieces in my house that get used on a regular basis and they still look good as new.
  • Maximum Control; This is the most flexible finish out of the finishes that I have tried. You can change the sheen by simply buffing longer, so instead of purchasing the sheen that you are looking for (semi-gloss, high-gloss, satin, etc..) you just buff until you get the desired results. If you do no buffing you get an almost flat finish (no other top coat can achieve that).


  • Time Consuming; Compared to spraying a different top coat, waxing is a bit more time-consuming. Is it worth it? If it gets you the look you are going for, absolutely! As I said before, this is one of my most used top coats on a day-to-day basis.
  • Difficulty to Learn; I would say learning how to wax furniture the correct way is one of the more difficult techniques I’ve had to learn. There are workshops out there that will teach you the right way… also you can watch tutorials online that will give you a good idea on how to do it. Once you get hang of it, wax is very easy to work with an apply, it just needs to be applied in a specific way. Too much wax, or an incorrect application results in a cloudy finish (who wants that?) that isn’t as durable.
  • Indoor Application Only; This is wax. It melts in the sun even after it has fully cured. Also, I don’t recommend using this on table tops. If you ever set something hot on the table – there is a chance it will melt.
  • Not Appropriate for Regular Latex Paint; This doesn’t mean you cannot use it with Latex, it just means I don’t recommend it. The reason why is because wax is designed to “soak” into the wood/paint to create a durable finish. With latex it just sits on top. If you want to use wax, I would recommend using our Homemade Chalk Paint Recipe.
  • Not the Best for Stained Surfaces; As I stated earlier, this really works best with Chalk Paint. You can use it with stain – but the wax tends to take some of the stain out with it as you wipe it on, which can result in a bit of a blotchy look on your furniture.
  • No Plastic Feel; Most other finishes have a somewhat plastic look and feel when they are finished. Wax gives it a beautiful hand rubbed finish that feels like glass.

Waxed Furniture


You apply wax by basically dipping a cloth or brush into the wax and rubbing it into the surface of your piece. Notice I said into, not onto. You should really be working it into the paint. Then take a clean rag and wipe off the excess. Thinner coats are better with this stuff as if it gets too thick it never dries and leaves the cloudiness you want to avoid. If you are looking for a good tutorial on how to apply wax I would recommend Perfectly Imperfects tutorial. She does a great job of explaining how to apply the wax to make it look good.


Oil Based Wipe On Poly

Honestly originally I wasn’t a big fan of wipe on poly, but I decided to give it another shot becuase I know many other furniture re-finisher’s that  love this stuff. It took a little while but I was able to get the technique down and its one of my go to products now. (Between this and the water based version be.) Here is the list of pro’s and con’s.

Wipe on Poly


  • No Paint Lines; Probably the biggest reason to use this stuff over anything else. Because the poly is wiped on – you don’t get the brush strokes you can get if you are painting by hand and you are left with a nice sprayed on finish.
  • Fantastic Protection; Out of all the top coats, I would say that poly is by far the best protection. I would give it a 10 on the 1-10 scale for durability. I haven’t found anything better yet.
  • Sheen; It comes in semi-gloss, gloss and satin sheen’s.


  • Lint; You must, must, must use a lint free rag to apply this stuff. Unfortunately, you can’t go to home depot and purchase a “lint free rag”. This is my biggest difficulty with this stuff. I usually use a sock, but even with that when I use it on black furniture you can see small little lint pieces which drive me crazy. I’ve been told that microfiber fabric works the best, but who has just  microfiber fabric sitting around? One day, I will go buy some and try it out to see if it works better. I’ll keep you updated on that little experiment when I get to it.
  • Yels Over Time; All polyurethane will yel over time. So, using them on white furniture is usually not the best option. I have tried it and it actually only takes a few weeks before it starts to yel. My advice – only use this on really dark colors. Also make sure to put on very thin coats, as if its gets globbed up, it will look very yel.


Other than the lint free rag issue – this stuff is very easy to apply. I would recommend using rubber gloves is possible to apply, mostly because this is oil based and it takes forever to get off your hands if you don’t. You just rub the liquid onto the piece until you get consistent smooth coverage and wait 1-3 hours for it to dry. The can says to sand between coats. I usually only do this if I’m using it on a table top or something like that (which is rare). All the sanding does is smooth out the little microscopic bubbles so that it feels like glass when you run your hands across it. I don’t think that’s necessary on a chair, but make sure to apply at least 2 coats. 3 if its going to be used in a high traffic area!

Click here for a video tutorial on how to apply wipe on poly.


Water Based Wipe On Poly

This is one of my go to products for white furniture because of its easy clean up and application. Honestly, there is a huge learning curve with this stuff, but once you get the hang of it, it works really well. This, polycrylic and wax are the only products I use for white furniture because they do not yel. Because I don’t like the unevenness of spray and paint on poly, I am generally going to use wax or wipe on. I use wax if I am not going to glaze the piece, but if I am going to glaze then I will use water based wipe on poly. (Find out why here.)


Water Based Wipe On Poly




  • No Paint Lines; Probably the biggest reason to use this stuff over anything else. Because the poly is wiped on – you don’t get the brush strokes you can get if you are painting by hand and you are left with a nice sprayed on finish.
  • Fantastic Protection; Out of all the top coats, I would say that poly is by far the best protection. I would give it a 10 on the 1-10 scale for durability. I haven’t found anything better yet.
  • Sheen; It comes in gloss and satin sheens.
  • Doesn’t Yel Over Time; 


  • Lint; You must, must, must use a lint free rag to apply this stuff. Unfortunately, you can’t go to home depot and purchase a “lint free rag”. This is my biggest difficulty with this stuff. I usually use a sock, but even with that when I use it on black furniture you can see small little lint pieces which drive me crazy. I’ve been told that microfiber fabric works the best, but who has just  microfiber fabric sitting around? One day, I will go buy some and try it out to see if it works better. I’ll keep you updated on that little experiment when I get to it.
  • Steep Learning Curve; Its real easy to mess this stuff up. When you first start using it, I recommend practicing on a scrap piece until you get the hang of it. Also if you put it on too thick it will turn yel.


Other than the lint free rag issue – this stuff is very easy to apply. I would recommend using rubber gloves is possible to apply, mostly because this is oil based and it takes forever to get off your hands if you don’t. You just rub the liquid onto the piece until you get consistent smooth coverage and wait 1-3 hours for it to dry. The can says to sand between coats. I usually only do this if I’m using it on a table top or something like that (which is rare). All the sanding does is smooth out the little microscopic bubbles so that it feels like glass when you run your hands across it. I don’t think that’s necessary on a chair, but make sure to apply at least 2 coats. 3 if its going to be used in a high traffic area!

Click here for a video tutorial on how to apply wipe on poly.



This is probably the most commonly used top coat for the average DIYer. You can but it in almost any store (including Wal-Mart) and its relatively inexpensive for a top coat. Its designed to go over stained surfaces, but works well with paint too. It’s important to remember that this is very different from PolyCrylic, which we will discuss later.



  • Extremely Durable; As I stated before, this would get a 10 out of 10 for durability from me.
  • Can buy in a Spray Can; This is a huge benefit for the average DIYer. Mostly because you can avoid so much hassle and mess if you just buy the spray can. You can get this in a regular can as well and paint it on with a brush (or paint sprayer if you have one), but if you don’t have a spray gun and want to avoid brush strokes, the spray can is the best solution. Its a little more expensive, but definitely worth it in the end.
  • Inexpensive; This is the cheapest top coat solution on the market.


  • Yels over Time; Just like Wipe-On Poly, this is oil based and will eventually yel over time. It works perfect for dark furniture, but I would not recommend for light colored pieces.
  • Consistent Sheen; If you decide you want to use the high-gloss sheen, it can be difficult to get a consistent sheen, and you end up going through quite a bit of polyurethane to achieve it. I have not had this issue with any of the other sheen’s (gloss, semi-gloss or satin), just the high gloss.
  • Plastic Feel; All Polyurethanes have a somewhat plastic feel to them. This is one of the biggest benefits of wax. You can get rid of some of that feel by going with a satin finish over a high gloss.

top finish details


You can apply this with a brush, but I do not recommend it because keeping the brush strokes out of the finish is very difficult, especially if you live in a place like Utah where its more common that the weather is above 70 or be 50 than in between that range (that range is the manufacturers recommended temperature range for the best results.) I use a spray gun, and it works perfectly- no brush strokes and no runny globs. If you don’t’ have a spray gun, I recommend spending the extra money to get the spray can. Generally one spray can will cover a medium size piece of furniture with no problem. If you have a larger piece or something where you have to do the inside and outside (armoire), then you might need a few more cans.



PolyCrylic is like Polyurethanes step sister. It has all the wonderful benefits of polyurethane, without the nasty yeling effect. One of the best solutions for light-colored furniture.



  • Same as Polyurethane
  • No Yeling Effect; This is water based, so it really gives a crystal clear finish on your piece.
  • Water Based; Clean up is much easier than oil based finishes. (Oil based products require paint thinner or mineral spirits to clean up instead of just water)


  • Plastic Feel; Just like polyurethane, this can look and feel somewhat like plastic when you’re finished. Its probably the biggest complaint against this finish.
  • Difficult to Get a Consistent Sheen when using High Gloss; just like polyurethane, its difficult to get a consistent sheen if you are using a high gloss PolyCrylic.
  • Expensive; This is much more expensive than polyurethane, which is why I will still use polyurethane if I am going over stained wood or if I am going over a dark color.

Drawer Details


The application of PolyCrylic is the exact same as Polyurethane.



Last but not least is clear lacquer  I have mixed feelings about this finish. I actually use it for almost all of my stained surfaces because it settles very smooth. The reason I have mixed feelings is that I have been told that it melts easy (similar to wax). I’ve never actually seen it happen, or heard about it from a reliable source, but a friend of mine said she tried it and it melted when she put a hot plate on it. I’m not sure if she just applied it wrong, used a different product, or if that is true for all laquers, so for now use caution. Hopefully I can try an experiment soon to put this debate to rest.



  • Smoothest Finish; Out of all the finishes listed above, this give the smoothest finish. It can even cover up small scratches and inperfections so that when you slide your hand across is smooth as silk. This is the reason I used it on all my table tops and stained surfaces. But for now, I am also adding a coat of polycrylic just in case over the lacquer.
  • Durable; Aside from the whole melting issue, this would receive an 8 out of 10 on durability scale.
  • Sheen; Available in semi-gloss, gloss and satin
  • Dries in 30 minutes.
  • Easy to Apply; If you are using the spray can, which is all I have used – then you don’t have to sand in between coats.
  • Avoid Plastic Feel of Polyurethanes


  • Expensive; This is a little too expensive for me to use over the entire piece, so I only use it on the tops. 
  • Smell; You must have a gas mask if you are going to use this stuff. It is the most toxic and worst smell out of any of the top coats listed above.

Laquered Furniture


The application of this is very self explanatory.  I’ve only ever seen it in a spray can, and all you need to do is make sure the surface is very clean and dry. Then spray at least 3 coats over the entire surface, waiting about 1/2 hour between coats. Make sure to do this somewhere with great ventilation and no open flames as this stuff is very flammable.

Although this list does not include every top coat on the market, these are the most commonly used products. I will continue to update this page when I try additional products available.











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Dresser Before and After

What’s better than one beautifully refinished dresser? Two of course! I just refinished these stunning dressers. I love them so much I actually ended up keeping one, but the other is listed for sale in the White Pearl Shop. I found both of these from an awesome family on KSL that was right around the corner from my house. It was such an easy thing. I went to get one dresser and ended up leaving with both. I kept the original hardware on both pieces because I thought they were so perfect, but just not the right color. So I spray painted them black with Rustoleum’s black satin metal spray paint and voila! Perfect!

Here’s dresser # 1 before the make-over. She had been left outside all summer and the top was really worn down and it had spider webs everywhere!

before 1before 2


You can somewhat see the second dresser behind this one, but unfortunately I forgot to take before pictures of the other one. Just imagine she was in a very similar state before the redo.

After 3This one was refinished in a classic white color on the bottom, with black hardware and a dark walnut stained top. She is currently listed for sale in the White Pearl Shop for $325After 1HardwareAfter 2

The second dresser that I picked up sort of last minute turned out amazing as well. I kept this one just because it was a bit larger and fit perfectly behind my couch.

Dresser 1Detailed Dresser 1Hardware 1


I love all the detail on these dressers with the carved out drawers and the middle cabinet. I wish I could find more like these!






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Peppermint Sugar Scrub Recipe

DIY Peppermint Sugar Scrub Recipe by Vintage Storehouse & Co.

Hi guys, Its been a while…. Christmas and New Years were crazy with all the DIY’s and crafts that get posted around the Holidays I was having a hay day. But unfortunately, I haven’t had time to update you guys on what I’ve been doing. But its a new year, and my new years resolution is to be a better blogger. Hopefully…. Anyways, I was messing around on Pinterest, and I saw a tutorial on how to make your own sugar scrub out of essential oils. I thought it was a fantastic idea for Christmas gifts, so I went down to my local vitamin shop and got some supplies and started mixing up the scrub. I changed the recipe a bit from the one I saw online, so here is what I found worked best for me. This recipe is for Peppermint Sugar Scrub, but you can really do any kind of essential oil you want. I’ve used lemon, orange and peppermint so far and they’ve all turned out fantastic. [Read more…]

Oops… Dark Wax Tips and Tricks

I am the worst blogger in the world!… I was working on my Gentlemen’s Gray dresser and I got a request to do a custom piece and totally forgot to finish the dresser.  I had run into a problem earlier this week in regards to using dark wax. I really don’t like traditional glazing… for one, I struggle with it. I think I’m a bit too much of a perfectionist to handle glazing. I get really frustrated on long straight pieces like tall dressers or the tops of long dressers because you can see the lines if you don’t do it all in one stroke, but if you try to do it all at once it dries too quickly. Plus the mess is a nightmare. I go through entire rolls of toilet paper trying to glaze one piece. So when I heard about dark wax – specifically Annie Sloan dark wax I was very intrigued…


Hence my journey of learning began and I am here to give you some helpful tips and tricks I learned along the way. I had read online and also heard from my local stockist if you use clear wax first – then the dark wax it was much easier to work with. Also if you use dark wax first the paint soaks up the wax like a sponge and it’s much too dark. I didn’t clarify one tiny part of this little tip… how long to wait after applying the clear wax. So I watched a YouTube video of a girl using dark wax and she applies the clear wax, wipes it off just like normal, but immediately after applies the dark wax. So that’s what I did on my blue dresser. It worked out just fine until I got to the long edges of the dresser… Because the dark wax was drying really fast I wasn’t able to run it off very quickly so I did it in 3 sections. The problem was that once it dried it was very clear where the 3 sections were. They didn’t blend together very well.


So back to YouTube and blogging I went to find a solution to my predicament. I really wanted this to work as it was much less messy and easier than using glaze. Then I came across The Painted Lady’s Blog. She has great tips in regards to using clear wax, and some even better tips with dark wax. First of all I learned that you need to let the clear wax dry completely before dipping into the dark wax. It looks much better, its much easier to work with and it actually sticks in the cracks a lot better to give it that aged look. Second I learned that you can actually create a glaze out of dark wax. Wait WHAT!? Isn’t that exactly what I hate doing? NO! It’s totally different.

How to Create a Wax Glaze

It’s very simple really. Just scoop out a glob of dark wax with a plastic spoon into a plastic cup. Add the same amount of mineral spirits to the wax. Mix very well. Use your handy-dandy waxing brush just like normal and paint it on. Soooo Easy. Then grab a cloth or whatever you use to wipe off the excess and let it dry. I wiped it all off in the same direction but because it stays wet for much longer you can really work with it to get the desired look. I find that it adds a much lighter glaze than just applying the dark wax directly and it worked perfectly for the sides of my blue dresser!

You can see how beautiful the glaze looks and how it accentuates all the little cracks and dings. Also it tones down the color a little bit to make it not as bright.

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Gentleman’s Gray and One Old Dresser

So with my huge collection of furniture just waiting to be refinished – I decided to see if I could finish my husbands dresser in just one day. Technically it would be 2 days – but I don’t count the first day because all I did is move it into my painting and fill in the holes with wood filler. I maybe worked on it for 5 minutes and left it to dry. Then this morning I went out and started sanding down the filler. This dresser has been around the block – it had little dings and dents everywhere – but for the most part they were minor.

This piece has the coolest newspaper lining I’ve ever seen. Its like the bottoms of the drawers were printed with newspaper from the time they were created. I really should try to see if I can find a date in there somewhere. It makes me want to try to find a way to recreate the look.

I’m refinishing this piece in a color called “Gentleman’s Gray” by Benin Moore. I am actually doing this to test out the color for the large display cabinet I purchased. This color was inspired by Perfectly Imperfects display cabinet that she refinished for her new shop. She finished hers with Annie Sloan chalk paint in Aubusson blue. I love Aubusson blue its a georgeous color. Now I’m not saying Gentleman’s Gray is the same as Aubusson blue – I have no idea, I didn’t compare. I just picked a color that worked well in my that was inspired by that color.

I’m keeping my fingers crossed that this will be finished tonight – or at the least to the point where I can move it inside and start waxing! By the way, have I told you how much I love Annie Sloan clear wax? I think I’m on my third can at this point. Its so buttery smooth and I love the way it feels when it hardens. Much better than using poly, there is a learning curve so my recommendation if you use it is to either sign up for a workshop at your local Annie Sloan stockist or spend hours and hours reading tips and tricks and how to videos before jumping in. If your unprepared you can get cloudiness in your finish that’s a little difficult to get out.




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Making It All Fit…

I did it! I purchased the table set and I made it fit. It really wasn’t that difficult after all. Good thing I have a basement or I wouldn’t have been able to get it all in there. I have two dining sets that are in the works right now. I put all the chairs for both dining sets (12 chairs total) in my basement, removed the legs and leafs from the tables and voila! I was able to find enough room for it all and still have enough room to work. (One of the finished dressers is still in my hallway, but I think I can find room for it with a little more rearranging.

Look at this beautiful table I picked up!

There are a lot of similarities between this table and the rustic table that I refinished before. Love the chunky legs, the wavy ladder back chairs and the cute drawers in the table. I like that this one has a leaf that takes it from a 4 person table to a 6 person table, that way its a bit more versatile for smaller living areas.  I also love the knotty wood on the top of the table. It will look amazing once it is re-stained dark. I also like that this one has the captain’s chair. The arms are a little wobbly, so hopefully I will be able to keep them. I have some left over hardware from the previous rustic table that I plan to incorporate onto this table. I’m very excited!


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The Good News or the Bad News?

So, I have good news and bad news….

The Good News

I finally put updated pieces in the available to refinish section of my site. I have 3 pieces that I will be selling that I can refinish in the style of your choosing. Last month I went on a buying splurge and purchased a huge load of furniture to refinish for my own home. I purchased a large buffet/dresser, a tall cabinet that I am going to use to store my piano books in and a huge 3 piece entertainment center that I am going to turn into a display case. In addition to that I am going to refinish a dresser that was passed on to my husband from his parents and I have another bookshelf from a previous purchase that needs to be finished… The dresser is about 40 years old and boy does it have some damage. I will have more information on those projects soon. All of these in addition to the 4 pieces I currently have in the White Pearl Shop means that my garage is litterally bursting at the seams (not really), but it is a little over crowded in there…

This is a photo of the dipslay case I purchased for my front living room, but you can see how cramped it is in here. I picked her up for only $230 and she is about 7 ft tall and 9 ft long. There are 3 pieces total and they have lights and tons of storage. I’ll have more info on that project here shortly. I’ve made soo many changes to my home and I’m falling behind in keeping the projects updated online.

The Bad News

Okay… so this really isn’t bad news – but it is a little bit of a problem. I found a dining set that is very similar to the rustic dining table that I refinished 2 months ago that I have gotten so many requests on. When I saw it – I just had to have it. I even have some left over hardware from that piece that I might try to incorporate onto this new one. My husband is so sick of picking up furniture he even made me sign a fake agreement document that I wouldn’t purchase anything else for another 2 weeks. Eeek – what am I going to do for 2 weeks… I am going to go pick it up tomorrow! but finding a spot to put it will be interesting…  I guess we’ll have to do some rearranging.






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New Furniture in the White Pearl Shop

Finally, I have some new pieces online! I just added 2 newly refinished hutches to the White Pearl Shop. Take a look at how amazing they turned out.

This one was done with the Annie Sloan paint that I recently wrote a review on. I love the way it turned out. Wish I could keep it but my husband would kill me.

I actually refinished this Rustic Hutch about 2 months ago, and decided I wanted to keep it…. well it didn’t really fit where I wanted it to go, so after 2 months of my husband hounding me about selling it because it didn’t fit, I decided to list it. It has so many cute details that I love, the slats on the cabinets, the iron leaves at the top and the lining in the drawers…. take a look….


Both of these pieces are available in the White Pearl Shop. There you can find measurements and pricing if you are interested. Also check out my before and after portfolio to see the amazing transformations these pieces made. I also have a dresser and a desk currently listed for sale as well in the Shop.




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Chalk Paint Remix

Here is the information I promised on my comparison of Annie Sloan Chalk Paint, my own DIY Chalk Paint and Benin Moore’s Regal Select 100% Acrylic paint. I started my little experiment by purchasing a gallon of Ben’s “white linen” paint at Jones Paint and Glass. I tried to match the color as closely as I could to Annie Sloan’s Old White color. I think I got pretty close, its just a tad bit lighter than Annie Sloan’s…


Here are the supplies that I used.I bought a big bucket of Plaster of Paris for around $5.00 at Jones Paint and Glass. The Polyblend Non-Sanded Grout was purchased for $13 at Home Depot. I have a glass of water, my acrylic paint, Annie Sloans Chalk paint. Two scrap boards that I found and 2 containers to mix my experiments in. I separated the two boards in half and labeled each side. 

I painted the annie slaon paint with my spray gun right onto the board. No priming, no sanding. Next I mixed my Plaster of Paris recipe and my Non-Sanded Grout recipe that I got from In My Style:

Plaster of Paris Recipe:

1 Part Plaster of Paris

3 Parts Paint


** Update: I’ve revamped my preferred mixture for Chalk Paint and have a new post with tips and tricks on how to use it.  Here is the new and improved recipe.

Chalk Paint Recipe

I started by adding  water to 1/2 cup of Plaster of Paris. I wanted my mixture to be really thick and chalky so I only put in enough water so that the mixture was similar to pancake batter. I got all the lumps out so it was really smooth.

Once the mixture was smooth, I mixed in my paint. I used 1 1/2 cups of paint…

I repeated the same steps for the Non-Sanded Grout version with this recipe:

Non-Sanded Grout Recipe

1 c. Non-Sanded Grout

3 c. Paint


I don’t know if you noticed – they are the exact same recipe as the Plaster of Paris just worded differently. I didn’t like the way the non-sanded grout turned out. No matter how long I mixed it it still had chunks of like rocks in it. It didn’t go on very smooth. It was basically the consistency of grout – not pancake batter. I don’t recommend this method based on my experience, but others have been more successful with it. Here are the results:

Can you see the difference? I didn’t think so… here are a couple of close up images of the different paints. I don’t have a close up on the latex paint, but just imagine that it looks exactly like the Plaster of Paris. You can’t tell a difference in the way they look – only the way they feel.

There literally is no difference that I can see in the Annie Sloan and the DIY Chalk paint using Plaster of Paris. If I had to make a comparison I would say that the Annie Sloan Paint has just a bit more chalkyness to it, but I would also say that using the DIY Plaster of Paris paint – it covers much better. I use a spray gun, so I have not compared the two when painting with a brush, but I can’t imaging a huge difference.

The non-sanded grout as you can see in the picture, did not come out very smooth. Again this could be because I did something wrong, but why mess with it when I’ve got the Plaster of Paris recipe right at my fingertips and it was much cheaper anyways. I did put a coat of the Annie Sloan wax on all of these. Even with the wax the latex still feels more sticky… Its not nearly as smooth as the chalk paint. I actually prefer the Plaster of Paris in smoothness after the wax goes on. It feels softer to the touch.

So good news for all you people out there who don’t want to pay $38.00 per quart on your painting projects. For a quart of the Plaster of Paris paint you are looking at approx. $14 per quart. Much more reasonable, and this is using the expensive Benin Moore Regal Select Paint. If you were to substitute for something like Behr that only costs you about $25 per gallon, you would be looking at around $7-8 per quart. I don’t recommend Behr paint only because it doesn’t lay as flat as Benin Moors Paint. Although Ben’s paint doesn’t claim that it was made for furniture as Annie Sloan’s does, I have spent hours and hours researching different paints. I’ve tried every brand I can find and I really can say its the best out there for this. Its strong, flexible, easy to work with, its water-based, no to VOC, and the paint lays perfectly flat. I mean – perfectly! I really do love this stuff. If you do purchase – make sure to do the Regal Select, not just the Regal – there’s a big difference!

One more benefit of this version over Annie Sloan – you can choose from thousands of colors. Annie Sloan has around 30 colors to choose from and yes you could mix the colors to come up with something you are looking for, but why bother when you’ve got thousands right at your fingertips? These are just my opinions – I don’t get paid for it – and you might have a different experience…

Hope you found this useful!


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